Archive for the ‘Reviews & Tips’ Category
Finding a Hot Pixel
On one of my recent istock uploads there was a hot pixel. It took awhile to locate the area on a photograph as detailed as the one shown below.
The best method I found to detect the hot pixel was to use the levels in photoshop. Bring up the low level slider to the middle. Hope this helps anyone else with this issue.
Not sure if this was technically a hot pixel as its larger than a single pixel, more like a collection of them – but this method would still work on a single pixel.
Tags: Hot pixels, istockphoto
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Studio Tips for Beginners
Its been nearly a year since I’ve had my bowens studio lights and I’ve learn’t a lot about studio photography in this time. Here are a collection of tips…
Set up each light separately. When you set up your studio lighting do each light independently. This makes it a lot easier to get the right exposures with test shots, using a light meter at this stage is a great aid!
Keep it tidy. It can get very messy very quickly with cables, backdrops, light stands and tripods so only keep the equipment that you require out as accidents can be expensive! When doing on location studio shoots I use tape to secure the leads down.
Remember to turn off wireless kits. Before you go to the computer to transfer the shots turn off your wireless triggering kits to save batteries! Also turn off your lights to save money and bulbs.
Lightbox size. Only try to take photos which are covered by your light boxes. This will give you the best results with your kit. If you try to light too bigger area you will get poor results.
Have a spare set of bulbs. When I’ve used the lights at events where I’m offering studio shots as a service I’ve always made sure that I’ve had a spare set of bulbs to hand – just in case!
Need more lights? When I bought my two lights I really wanted three but my budget couldn’t stretch that far so I purchased a reflector to bounce off the lights to use as a fill. I use a spare tripod to position the reflector if I don’t have an assistant.
Below is a selection of stock images created with studio lights…
Tags: Beginners, Lights, Studio, Tips
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EF 50mm f/1.8 II Lens Review
As like all my other reviews I will focus on the creativity of this lens rather than then technical side. But for those of you who like there specs here they are…
- Diagonal Angle of View: 46°
- Lens Construction (elements/groups): 6/5
- No. of Diaphragm blades: 5
- Minimum Aperture: 22
- Closest Focusing Distance (m): 0.45
- Maximum Magnification (x): 0.15
- Filter Diameter (mm): 52
The Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Lens aka the “nifty fifty” can be bought for around £80, which in photography terms is cheap. This lens was the 2nd lens I ever purchased and got me started in the area of low light photography. The main feature that struck me about this lens is the sharpness when wide open f1.8 to f3.2.
The lens was my first prime lens and got me thinking more about composition – zoom lens can be handy – but they tend to make you lazy at setting up your shot. With the 50mm focal length you have to really move yourself – which makes you think more about the shot.
If you have a camera which doesn’t have high ISO such as the Canon EOS 400D (max ISO 1600) then this lens can give you an improvement in low light photography when wide open.
With a cheap price tag comes some short falls…
- Build quality isn’t fantastic but with it been the shortest Canon lens it doesn’t seem to get knocked about as much as the bigger lenses.
- Bokeh created by this lens isn’t the best when compared with the other 50mm lenses (f/1.4, f/1.2L).
- The focus motor is noisy.
- The lens hood is a little odd.
- No full time manual focusing – make sure you only rotate the focus ring in manual focus – otherwise you can damage the lens.
However these short falls aren’t enough to put me off the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Lens, its always in my bag and its fun to shoot with.
Ask for one this Christmas!
Tags: 50mm, Canon, Lens, Low Light, Review
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Getting in to DSLR Photography
Recently I was asked for advice about getting in to DSLR photography.
The following questions were raised…
Nikon or Canon?
Even though I’m a Canon shooter I’m not going to take sides here. Choose the camera that suits you the best, try out a friends camera or go down to your local camera shop and ask to try out different models.
When considering a model evaluate the ergonomics – does it feel right in your hands? Check out the menu system – is it easy for you to navigate around?
Also consider what manufacturer makes your friends and families cameras – this is an important factor as it may give you the option to borrow different lenses in the future- which could save you a lot of money.
Stick with the kit or get a body and lens separate?
3-4 years ago when I bought a Canon 400D I went for the lens kit option (18-55mm). Looking back now I wish I had just got the body and a 28-135mm IS lens as I needed the extra range, as I took mainly travel photos back then.
However now there is a greater choice of kit lenses available today for the entry level camera range, but be prepared to spend a bit more money.
Here a few examples….
- Canon 500D Digital SLR Camera (incl. EF 18-200mm Lens Kit)
- Canon 450D IS Double Zoom Kit (EOS 450D Camera, EF-S 18-55mm IS f/3.5-5.6 Lens & EF-S 55-250mm IS f/4.0-5.6 lens)
- NIKON D5000 + AF-S DX VR 18-55mm Lens + AF-S DX VR 55-200mm Lens + SLR Camera Case + SDHC Ultra II 8 GB Memory Card + EN-EL9 Battery + All-in-One Memory Card Reader Consumer SLR camera Digital camera Bundle
- Nikon D90 Digital SLR Camera 18-105 VR Kit
A Canon 500D Body Only with a Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS lens would be my choice of camera and lens if I were just getting in to DSLR photography.
What is the best way to learn about DSLR photography?
There are plenty of ways to learn more about photography, the most effective method of learning I have found is by accepting that when you take pictures to be open to positive criticism – you can learn a lot from it!
Looking at other photos will also help you become better by appreciating what makes a good photograph.
Below is a list of resources I’ve found helpful over the last 4 years.
- Books
- Podcasts
- Websites
What do I need to know about memory?
Buy a good brand!
Its not worth the risk in saving a few pounds for increasing the chance of losing your photos, believe me I’ve been there. Now I only buy top grade memory – I recommend the following…
Tags: DSLR, Photography (All)
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5D Mark II or 7D?
Its been awhile since the last post – I’ve been busying away with a new site design, which will be coming shortly and along with some new photos!
Anyway back to the subject of this post…
About a month ago I started researching into which new camera to upgrade to. My Canon 400D has served me well over the last 3 years, but was starting to limit me. ISO performance was the main issue, anything over 400 had too much noise for Stock photography and the maximum ISO of 1600 meant low light photography was impossible without a tripod.
My research lead me to two cameras, the 5D Mark II and the new 7D . I had to rule out Nikon cameras due to my investment in Canon Lenses. At first I was very curious about the 7D as its features creates an impressive list.
- 18MP APS-C CMOS sensor
- 8 frames per second continuous shooting
- ISO 100 – 6400
- 1080p HD video recording with manual controls
- Wireless flash control
- 19-point AF system (all cross-type)
- 1.0x magnification and 100% coverage viewfinder
- 3.0 inch 920,000 dot LCD monitor
A brief look at the 5D Mark II offers the following specs.
- 21MP full frame CMOS sensor
- 3.9 frames per second continuous shooting
- ISO 100 – 6400
- 1080p HD video recording with manual controls
- 98% coverage viewfinder (0.71x magnification)
- 3.0 inch 920,000 dot LCD monitor
I then searched the internet for photographs taken by both cameras, flickr came in very useful. I was mainly looking at low light performance in the shots. The best example I found of Canon 7D was a beta test taken at a muse gig. For the 5D Mark II I used the dpreview site examples to compare.
From this I settled on the 5D Mark II, it suits my current and future needs of a camera. The low light performance was the major factor for me to choose this camera. If I was going to shoot more sports and wildlife I know the 7D would be the best choice.
For those of you looking to buy kit soon I found this useful website for comparing prices of cameras & lenses. It also shows a graph of the price history – other the last month the 5D Mark II has come down over a £100.
In the next few weeks I’ll be posting some shots with the new camera.
Tags: 5D mk2, 7D, Cameras
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How to Photograph Fireworks
Photographing fireworks can be a tricky business, especially if they are as crazy as the Crackers show, which was staged at Delapre Park in Northampton. The show was brilliant but there was a bit of guess work in regards to framing a shot! I’ve taken photographs of fireworks quite a few times now and have established the following tips in getting better shots…
- Use a tripod – you will need a long shutter speed so this is essential to get a sharp shot. Also if you’re using a lens with image stabilisation turn it off.
- Use a remote – again this will help for sharpness as you won’t knock the camera when you press the shutter release.
- Use a long lens – its best to get in as tight as possible as the fireworks will go bang high up in the sky or if its on the ground like a Catherine Wheel it will be far away behind a barrier.
- Use a long shutter speed – the length can be tricky to judge, I normally start at 4 seconds for rocket fireworks – this lets you capture the trails(see below). Make sure you look at your screen to check the exposure.
- Be quick! – Make sure you try to get as many shots as possible – firework displays don’t last long.
Hopefully this guide will help you for Bonfire night which is nearly upon us!
Tags: Crackers, Fireworks, Northampton, Tips
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EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM Lens Review
- Diagonal Angle of View: 24°
- Lens Construction (elements/groups): 10/9
- No. of Diaphragm blades: 8
- Minimum Aperture: 32
- Closest Focusing Distance: 0.31 metres
- Maximum Magnification (x): 1
- AF Actuator: USM
- Filter Diameter: 58mm
- Price: £450 approx
Review
This was my 3rd lens I purchased for my 400D and I have no regrets. Build quality of the Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM Lens is sturdy and the design of the focus ring is excellent. The lens does not extend while focusing, which is very useful when getting in close to a subject.
A favourite application for this lens is food photography – the lens enables you get close up compositions without needing to physically get extremely close to the subject. This is handy when taking photos of hot food as the lens will not steam up.
A way to get more magnification in your macro photos using the 100mm lens is to use an extension tube or attached a 50mm or 35mm lens using coupling ring. I attach the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Lens to the 100mm Macro Lens for photographing insects. This method does require manual focusing, a tripod, good lighting and a lot of patience. The photography below was taken using this setup. The wasp was dead – which made it a lot easier to focus!
Accessories
58mm filter size makes buying filters for this lens affordable. Extension tubes can be added to increase the magnification of your subject.
Pros
-Good value for money
-Light weight.
-Great lens for a rainy day.
-Lens does not extend when focusing.
-Cheap when compared with alternative.
Cons
- Can be slow to focus at times.
- There is a better version of this lens, but you will need deep pockets.
Tags: 100mm, 50mm, Canon, Macro, Review, Wasp
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Canon Remote RC-1 Review
Specs:
- Connectivity Technology: Infrared
- Supported Cameras: 5D Mark II, Canon 300D, 400D, 450D, 500D
- Max Operating Distance: 5 metres
- Price: £20
Review
For those people that own any of the above cameras I would recommend the RC-1 remote control. The size is perfect for fitting in my small travel backpack and I’m glad that it isn’t connected by a wire to the camera.
The remote has three modes, immediate shot, 2 sec delay and off. The 2 second delay mode is extremely useful, as its gives you enough time to hide the remote when you want to be in a photograph taken by yourself.
The only negative thing I can say about the remote is that it can be a problem to get it to work from behind the camera – as the infrared receiver is on the front of the camera. The remote works fine about 1/2 a metre away from the back of the camera, anything more then you might have to start moving round the side. However i never find this an issue as I’m normally right behind the camera when I shoot.
Pros:
-Small size.
-Clips on to strap.
-2 Second mode.
Cons:
-Can be a pain using it behind the camera.
Tags: Canon Remote RC-1, kit, Review
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Travel Photography Tips
This is a summary of what I’ve learnt so far about travel photography, plus some aims I wish to achieve in the future. Hope they help.
1. Less is more.
Take the minimum equipment you need, this will aid your creativity and also make taking photos enjoyable – I hate to lug loads of kit with me. Also make sure your camera bag is comfortable and small enough for carry on luggage, (if your travelling via plane) as to give you piece of mind that your kit is safe! Also investing in the bag that has a weatherproof cover is wise!
In an earlier post I wrote a kit guide to travel photography, click here to read if your not sure about your current kit. Please note that your kit isn’t the most important factor of your photography, a lot of it is about how you use it.
2. Photograph the travelling. Not just the landmarks.
Be it by plane, train or automobile you can still get a great photo. Also roads are a great aid to composition – drawing you into the photograph.
3. Try to get local people in your shots.
This is an area I want to develop a lot further myself.
4. Use the P setting when walking about.
This mode offers best chance of getting a “chance moment shot”. If you have more time to set up for a shot I would then move to AV to M mode.
5. Travel Tripod
If you can fit it in take a tripod on your trip. I use a Joby Gorillapod
with a [small tripod head], this suited me when I was backpacking. This compact option has given me the chance to get some city night shots.
6. Adjust your camera settings in the morning.
Make sure that before you leave your hotel room you adjust your settings to suit your day ahead. If you did night photography the day before your are likely to have high ISO and a long shutter speed and maybe have it on remote shooting mode. If you forget to change this you could miss your first shot of the day or have to wait 10 seconds – if you have left it on delayed mode!
7. Manage your memory.
When off on your travels make sure that you have more than one memory card packed. It would be better to have 2x4GB cards than one 8GB one, because if your card fails then you could potentially lose all your photos. Also don’t go for cheap memory – I’ve had a bad experience of this and just managed to recover my photos. Since then I’ve moved 100% to SanDisk and never had an issue – its worth the investment. If you have the cash to spare you could invest in a MultiMedia Storage Viewer to be extra safe to back up to.
Another tip is to change your memory cards daily or if your doing an expensive tour i.e. scenic flight try to do this half way through. If a fault does occurs and you can’t recover your images this method should give you some variety of photographs from your travels.
8. Keep your kit clean.
I try to clean my kit every 2-3 days when travelling. If I shoot on a beach or a dusty environment then I try to do it as soon as possible.
This can prevent-
- Dust and dirt getting into camera and lens (especially zoom lenses).
- Later work in removing dirt from images.
- Slow down the impact of general wear and tear.
An example of the wear and tear that can occur is the deterioration of a lens hoods. The groove that the lens hood is mounted on can get grit and dirt in and over time this can wear away the plastic on the hood.
9. Take info photos.
Helps you identify a place you’ve visited.
10. Look at Flickr.
Research the places you are visiting on flickr.com before you travel – see what is out there. Then try to get better compositions of what you saw – its always a challenge.
11. Try to be creative even in bad weather!
I know it can be a pain to take photos when its raining. If its just a light drizzle try using an umbrella while shooting to protect your kit.
12. Keep in mind the humidity!
If your off to a tropical country its likely that humidity could effect your kit. When in Darwin, Australia going from air conditions buildings/vehicles to the outside humidity, my lens would steam up badly, I couldn’t see through the lens. It took 5-10 mins to demist.
13. Research the sunrise and sunset times to get the best light.
The following links may help you in getting the right times.
BBC Weather website normally gives a weeks worth of data. http://news.bbc.co.uk/weather/
Uses Google Maps. http://www.earthtools.org/
14. Keep your eyes open.
Look out for interesting perspectives or subjects.
15. Protect your kit and get more creative.
Use Lens hoods and UV filters to protect your kit – they come in handy when resting against glass windows.
Polarizing filters can be a creative tool to use when taking photos that include of sky or water.
Tags: Tips, Travel
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Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM Review
- Weight 385g
- Filter size 77mm
- Closest focusing distance 0.24 metres
- Max. diameter x length – 83.5 x 89.8 mm
Review
This ultra wide lens is a wonderful lens to have, but it needs to be used wisely to obtain the best from it. The Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM Lens can create impressive and dramatic photos or very dull and flat ones. The main issue is the difficulty in composition, using this range creates a lot of background. Care must be taken in understanding what works with this lens. Close up shots can have great depth with this lens.
I’d recommend the Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM Lens to suit anyone looking for an addition to their every day zoom lens as you can get very creative with it. A little feature I like about this kit is that even though its a zoom lens the actual length of the lens remains the same. The front of the lens moves within the lens casing. Build quality is solid throughout and the USM is a welcomed feature.
Image quality is generally very good. One minor issue is the distortion and sharpness at the edges. A common application I use this lens for is photographing scenic roads, I’ve notice the quality of the image at the road edges sometimes needs a little work or cropping.
Accessories
To avoid vignetting when at 10mm with a filter attached I would advise a slim profile filter Hoya 77mm Pro1 Digital UV Filter. Also the Hoya 77mm PRO1 Digital Circular PL Filter polarising low profile filter is a good investment as the filter size of the EF-S 10-22mm Lens is the same as some popular canon lenses “24-105″, 28-300, 70-200, 100-400.
The Canon EW-83E Lens Hood can reduce lens flare – but the main advantage I found with it is to protect the lens and filter. When taking photos behind glass (ie in buildings or in transit) its a nice barrier to rest on to minimise reflection and damage. A note of caution in fitting the hood – make sure it is attached correctly, because if its not 100% on the thread the hood will show in your photos and you may not spot the hood in your view finder due to the 95% view on EF-S fitting range of Canon cameras.
Pros:
-Great for creativity.
-Common filter sized lens.
-Affordable price.
-Zoom does not extend the lens length.
Cons:
-Only compatible with APS-C sized bodies.
-Greater care required for composition.
Tags: Canon, EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5, Lens, Review, Wide Angle
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