• Exterior dimensions – 33 x 23.5 x 24 cm
• Interior dimensions – 29 x 16 x 20 cm
• Weight – 0.8KG
• Weatherproof cover

I’ve owned the Lowepro Nova 190 AW camera bag for over 6 months now and I’m glad I choose it. I invested in the bag due to my old Lowepro Nova 160 bag wearing out at the zip after 4 years good service. Looking at the Lowepro camera bags available at the time of buying I wanted to get a balance between the size of the bag in terms of portability and what kit I could fit in it. The Lowepro Nova 190 AW at first struck me as massive when compared with my old bag, but after a few trips out with it I soon appreciated the space for kit especially for wedding use. The bag can easily fit the following…

• Canon 5D Mk2 with a 24-105mm plus lens hood
• Canon 400D with 100mm lens
• Canon EF 50 mm f/1.8 II Lens
• Canon Speedlite 430EX flash unit
• Giottos Rocket Air Blower
• A spare battery for each camera
• 5 memory cards
• 8xAA batteries
• Canon RC 6 – Camera remote

The only negative comment I have about this bag is the weather cover, which does an excellent job of protecting your kit from the elements, but getting the cover out and fixing it in place isn’t that quick when compare with the Lowepro Nova 160. If you think its probably going to rain on your shoot make sure the cover is already on before you leave the house, it’s a lot easier to do then!

If you’re considering buying a camera bag in this size range there are these bags also to consider…

• Lowepro Nova 180 AW – best for 1 SLR camera and a few lenses
• Lowepro Nova 200 AW – Can accommodated long telephoto lenses.

Pros
- Good value for money.
- Well padded strap.
- Great weatherproofing.
- Plenty of smaller pockets included to store the smaller bits of kit.

Cons
- Weatherproof cover isn’t quick to install.
- May not be the bag for you if want to fit 2 large SLR cameras like the Canon 5D Mk2.

Over the winter period I learnt the importance of fitting a UV filter to my 10-22mm EF-S lens. The bag it was in didn’t protect it from a small drop on a concrete path, thankfully the filter took the impact of the fall. The cost of replacing this £40 filter was well worth it, when compared to how much it could cost to repair the lens!

If you do find that your filter has taken a hit like the photo above make sure you remove the filter very carefully as the broken glass could scratch the front lens element. I use my trusty Rocket Air Blower to move most of the shattered glass. To get the stubbon bits I dabbed a slightly wet cotton wool bud. Take your time in cleaning the lens as its surprising where the glass gets to!

When I first started in photography I always wondered if it was worth putting a filter on as it might effect the image quality, now I’ve had an accident I know its well worth the trade off (if there is one) – I try to get the best quality lens filters.

The best method I found to detect the hot pixel was to use the levels in photoshop. Bring up the low level slider to the middle. Hope this helps anyone else with this issue.

• Diagonal Angle of View: 46°
• Lens Construction (elements/groups): 6/5
• No. of Diaphragm blades: 5
• Minimum Aperture: 22
• Closest Focusing Distance (m): 0.45
• Maximum Magnification (x): 0.15
• Filter Diameter (mm): 52

The Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Lens aka the “nifty fifty” can be bought for around £80, which in photography terms is cheap. This lens was the 2nd lens I ever purchased and got me started in the area of low light photography. The main feature that struck me about this lens is the sharpness when wide open f1.8 to f3.2.

Canon 5D Mk2, EF 50mm MkII – 1/160 sec, f/3.2, ISO 2000

The lens was my first prime lens and got me thinking more about composition – zoom lens can be handy – but they tend to make you lazy at setting up your shot. With the 50mm focal length you have to really move yourself – which makes you think more about the shot.

Canon 5D Mk2, EF 50mm MkII – 1/400 sec, f/2.5, ISO 1600

If you have a camera which doesn’t have high ISO such as the Canon EOS 400D (max ISO 1600) then this lens can give you an improvement in low light photography when wide open.

With a cheap price tag comes some short falls…

• Build quality isn’t fantastic but with it been the shortest Canon lens it doesn’t seem to get knocked about as much as the bigger lenses.
• Bokeh created by this lens isn’t the best when compared with the other 50mm lenses (f/1.4, f/1.2L).
• The focus motor is noisy.
• The lens hood is a little odd.
• No full time manual focusing – make sure you only rotate the focus ring in manual focus – otherwise you can damage the lens.

However these short falls aren’t enough to put me off the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Lens, its always in my bag and its fun to shoot with.

Ask for one this Christmas!

Nikon or Canon?

Even though I’m a Canon shooter I’m not going to take sides here. Choose the camera that suits you the best, try out a friends camera or go down to your local camera shop and ask to try out different models.

When considering a model evaluate the ergonomics – does it feel right in your hands? Check out the menu system – is it easy for you to navigate around?

Also consider what manufacturer makes your friends and families cameras – this is an important factor as it may give you the option to borrow different lenses in the future- which could save you a lot of money.

Stick with the kit or get a body and lens separate?

3-4 years ago when I bought a Canon 400D I went for the lens kit option (18-55mm). Looking back now I wish I had just got the body and a 28-135mm IS lens as I needed the extra range, as I took mainly travel photos back then.

However now there is a greater choice of kit lenses available today for the entry level camera range, but be prepared to spend a bit more money.

Here a few examples….

• Canon 500D Digital SLR Camera (incl. EF 18-200mm Lens Kit)
• Canon 450D IS Double Zoom Kit (EOS 450D Camera, EF-S 18-55mm IS f/3.5-5.6 Lens & EF-S 55-250mm IS f/4.0-5.6 lens)
• NIKON D5000 + AF-S DX VR 18-55mm Lens + AF-S DX VR 55-200mm Lens + SLR Camera Case + SDHC Ultra II 8 GB Memory Card + EN-EL9 Battery + All-in-One Memory Card Reader Consumer SLR camera Digital camera Bundle
• Nikon D90 Digital SLR Camera 18-105 VR Kit

A Canon 500D Body Only with a Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS lens would be my choice of camera and lens if I were just getting in to DSLR photography.

What is the best way to learn about DSLR photography?

There are plenty of ways to learn more about photography, the most effective method of learning I have found is by accepting that when you take pictures to be open to positive criticism – you can learn a lot from it!

Looking at other photos will also help you become better by appreciating what makes a good photograph.

Below is a list of resources I’ve found helpful over the last 4 years.

• Books
  • Scott Kelby’s Digital Photography Boxed Set: v. 1, 2 & 3
• Podcasts
  • Photofocus
  • The art of photography
  • Photoshop User TV
• Websites
  • Phototuts
  • Photofocus
  • Canon Professional Network

What do I need to know about memory?

Buy a good brand!

Its not worth the risk in saving a few pounds for increasing the chance of losing your photos, believe me I’ve been there. Now I only buy top grade memory – I recommend the following…

• Lexar 8GB 133x Professional SD Card
• SanDisk Extreme III SDHC 4GB Card

Anyway back to the subject of this post…

About a month ago I started researching into which new camera to upgrade to. My Canon 400D has served me well over the last 3 years, but was starting to limit me. ISO performance was the main issue, anything over 400 had too much noise for Stock photography and the maximum ISO of 1600 meant low light photography was impossible without a tripod.

My research lead me to two cameras, the 5D Mark II and the new 7D . I had to rule out Nikon cameras due to my investment in Canon Lenses. At first I was very curious about the 7D as its features creates an impressive list.

• 18MP APS-C CMOS sensor
• 8 frames per second continuous shooting
• ISO 100 – 6400
• 1080p HD video recording with manual controls
• Wireless flash control
• 19-point AF system (all cross-type)
• 1.0x magnification and 100% coverage viewfinder
• 3.0 inch 920,000 dot LCD monitor

A brief look at the 5D Mark II offers the following specs.

• 21MP full frame CMOS sensor
• 3.9 frames per second continuous shooting
• ISO 100 – 6400
• 1080p HD video recording with manual controls
• 98% coverage viewfinder (0.71x magnification)
• 3.0 inch 920,000 dot LCD monitor

I then searched the internet for photographs taken by both cameras, flickr came in very useful. I was mainly looking at low light performance in the shots. The best example I found of Canon 7D was a beta test taken at a muse gig. For the 5D Mark II I used the dpreview site examples to compare.

From this I settled on the 5D Mark II, it suits my current and future needs of a camera. The low light performance was the major factor for me to choose this camera. If I was going to shoot more sports and wildlife I know the 7D would be the best choice.

For those of you looking to buy kit soon I found this useful website for comparing prices of cameras & lenses. It also shows a graph of the price history – other the last month the 5D Mark II has come down over a £100.

In the next few weeks I’ll be posting some shots with the new camera.

Canon 400D, Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0 L IS USM – 0.6 sec, f/9, ISO 100

Photographing fireworks can be a tricky business, especially if they are as crazy as the Crackers show, which was staged at Delapre Park in Northampton. The show was brilliant but there was a bit of guess work in regards to framing a shot! I’ve taken photographs of fireworks quite a few times now and have established the following tips in getting better shots…

• Use a tripod – you will need a long shutter speed so this is essential to get a sharp shot. Also if you’re using a lens with image stabilisation turn it off.
• Use a remote – again this will help for sharpness as you won’t knock the camera when you press the shutter release.
• Use a long lens – its best to get in as tight as possible as the fireworks will go bang high up in the sky or if its on the ground like a Catherine Wheel it will be far away behind a barrier.
• Use a long shutter speed – the length can be tricky to judge, I normally start at 4 seconds for rocket fireworks – this lets you capture the trails(see below). Make sure you look at your screen to check the exposure.
• Be quick! – Make sure you try to get as many shots as possible – firework displays don’t last long.

Canon 400D, Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0 L IS USM – 4 sec, f/9, ISO 100

Hopefully this guide will help you for Bonfire night which is nearly upon us!

• Diagonal Angle of View: 24°
• Lens Construction (elements/groups): 10/9
• No. of Diaphragm blades: 8
• Minimum Aperture: 32
• Closest Focusing Distance: 0.31 metres
• Maximum Magnification (x): 1
• AF Actuator: USM
• Filter Diameter: 58mm
• Price: £450 approx

Review
This was my 3rd lens I purchased for my 400D and I have no regrets. Build quality of the Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM Lens is sturdy and the design of the focus ring is excellent. The lens does not extend while focusing, which is very useful when getting in close to a subject.

A favourite application for this lens is food photography – the lens enables you get close up compositions without needing to physically get extremely close to the subject. This is handy when taking photos of hot food as the lens will not steam up.

Canon 400D, Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 USM – 1/800 sec, f/7.1, ISO 100

A way to get more magnification in your macro photos using the 100mm lens is to use an extension tube or attached a 50mm or 35mm lens using coupling ring. I attach the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Lens to the 100mm Macro Lens for photographing insects. This method does require manual focusing, a tripod, good lighting and a lot of patience. The photography below was taken using this setup. The wasp was dead – which made it a lot easier to focus!

Canon 400D, Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 USM + 50mm f/1.8 – f/32, ISO 400

Accessories
58mm filter size makes buying filters for this lens affordable. Extension tubes can be added to increase the magnification of your subject.

Pros
-Good value for money
-Light weight.
-Great lens for a rainy day.
-Lens does not extend when focusing.
-Cheap when compared with alternative.

Cons
- Can be slow to focus at times.
- There is a better version of this lens, but you will need deep pockets.

Specs:

• Connectivity Technology: Infrared
• Supported Cameras: 5D Mark II, Canon 300D, 400D, 450D, 500D
• Max Operating Distance: 5 metres
• Price: £20

Review
For those people that own any of the above cameras I would recommend the RC-1 remote control. The size is perfect for fitting in my small travel backpack and I’m glad that it isn’t connected by a wire to the camera.

The remote has three modes, immediate shot, 2 sec delay and off. The 2 second delay mode is extremely useful, as its gives you enough time to hide the remote when you want to be in a photograph taken by yourself.

The only negative thing I can say about the remote is that it can be a problem to get it to work from behind the camera – as the infrared receiver is on the front of the camera. The remote works fine about 1/2 a metre away from the back of the camera, anything more then you might have to start moving round the side. However i never find this an issue as I’m normally right behind the camera when I shoot.

Pros:

• Small size.
• Clips on to strap.
• 2 Second mode.

Cons:

• Can be a pain using it behind the camera.

1. Less is more.

Take the minimum equipment you need, this will aid your creativity and also make taking photos enjoyable – I hate to lug loads of kit with me. Also make sure your camera bag is comfortable and small enough for carry on luggage, (if your travelling via plane) as to give you piece of mind that your kit is safe! Also investing in the bag that has a weatherproof cover is wise!

In an earlier post I wrote a kit guide to travel photography, click here to read if your not sure about your current kit. Please note that your kit isn’t the most important factor of your photography, a lot of it is about how you use it.

2. Photograph the travelling. Not just the landmarks.

Be it by plane, train or automobile you can still get a great photo. Also roads are a great aid to composition – drawing you into the photograph.

3. Try to get local people in your shots.

This is an area I want to develop a lot further myself.

4. Use the P setting when walking about.

This mode offers best chance of getting a “chance moment shot”. If you have more time to set up for a shot I would then move to AV to M mode.

5. Travel Tripod

If you can fit it in take a tripod on your trip. I use a Joby Gorillapod
with a [small tripod head], this suited me when I was backpacking. This compact option has given me the chance to get some city night shots.

6. Adjust your camera settings in the morning.

Make sure that before you leave your hotel room you adjust your settings to suit your day ahead. If you did night photography the day before your are likely to have high ISO and a long shutter speed and maybe have it on remote shooting mode. If you forget to change this you could miss your first shot of the day or have to wait 10 seconds – if you have left it on delayed mode!

7. Manage your memory.

When off on your travels make sure that you have more than one memory card packed. It would be better to have 2x4GB cards than one 8GB one, because if your card fails then you could potentially lose all your photos. Also don’t go for cheap memory – I’ve had a bad experience of this and just managed to recover my photos. Since then I’ve moved 100% to SanDisk and never had an issue – its worth the investment. If you have the cash to spare you could invest in a MultiMedia Storage Viewer to be extra safe to back up to.

Another tip is to change your memory cards daily or if your doing an expensive tour i.e. scenic flight try to do this half way through. If a fault does occurs and you can’t recover your images this method should give you some variety of photographs from your travels.

8. Keep your kit clean.

I try to clean my kit every 2-3 days when travelling. If I shoot on a beach or a dusty environment then I try to do it as soon as possible.

This can prevent-

• Dust and dirt getting into camera and lens (especially zoom lenses).
• Later work in removing dirt from images.
• Slow down the impact of general wear and tear.

An example of the wear and tear that can occur is the deterioration of a lens hoods. The groove that the lens hood is mounted on can get grit and dirt in and over time this can wear away the plastic on the hood.

9. Take info photos.

Helps you identify a place you’ve visited.

10. Look at Flickr.

Research the places you are visiting on flickr.com before you travel – see what is out there. Then try to get better compositions of what you saw – its always a challenge.

11. Try to be creative even in bad weather!

I know it can be a pain to take photos when its raining. If its just a light drizzle try using an umbrella while shooting to protect your kit.

12. Keep in mind the humidity!

If your off to a tropical country its likely that humidity could effect your kit. When in Darwin, Australia going from air conditions buildings/vehicles to the outside humidity, my lens would steam up badly, I couldn’t see through the lens. It took 5-10 mins to demist.

13. Research the sunrise and sunset times to get the best light.

The following links may help you in getting the right times.

BBC Weather website normally gives a weeks worth of data. http://news.bbc.co.uk/weather/
Uses Google Maps. http://www.earthtools.org/

14. Keep your eyes open.

Look out for interesting perspectives or subjects.

15. Protect your kit and get more creative.

Use Lens hoods and UV filters to protect your kit – they come in handy when resting against glass windows.
Polarizing filters can be a creative tool to use when taking photos that include of sky or water.